A PARIS HAUTE COUTURE DIARY: DAY ONE
words by JVB • Fashion
Intimate showings and unique designs shone brightly as the sun set on Day One of Paris Haute Couture Week.
SHOWING 1: Ana Khouri
My dear friend Ana Khouri - what a stunning display you gave.
As predicted, Khouri’s latest presentation, the Harmony Collection, was the definition of modern-meets-classic. Ana has an unusual approach to jewelry design, always managing to create the most unique and special pieces; her ear cuffs were a stand-out.
Personally? I am not an earrings girl. No matter what I try, I put them on and always manage to feel old. So I have resigned to the fact my lobes will never be frosted with unusual-chic diamonds and stones. BUT - I will say - Ana Khouri, YES, please! I will be pulling your pieces for one of my clients very, very soon...
RUNWAY 1: Acne
The best way to describe Acne Spring Ready To Wear 2020: Hungergames meets bespoke fashion (in the best sense).
Dipping into beiges and used fabrics, the collection had a certain ‘distressed’ appeal. Lots of holes and intended wear-and-tear. Overall, a look of post-apocalyptic futurism. But so very cool.
As expected, the tailoring was superb - even beneath the weathered aesthetic. Acne, reliably, produces pants and suit jackets in timeless silhouettes, making them the suitable foundation brand to any wardrobe. I just love them.
The creative appeal was extended to the music and makeup. Famed conceptual MUA, Peter Philips, hung tiny crystal-like jewels near and around the eyes of the models, giving the illusion of tears. And the finale was accompanied to the tune of White Rabbit (a personal favorite).
SHOWING 2: Olivier Theyskens
Olivier Theyskens, your Resort 2020 collection was truly delightful. Especially so given the significance of presenting in your brand new head-quartered space.
Situated on the second floor of the L’hôtel de Bourrienne, an 18th Century ‘parisien de l’architecture directoire’, the back-drop made a sublime juxtaposition to the 90s like vibe of the couture designs. One of the fabrics used in the pre-collection was even copied from the wall-paper found in the new space.
A very cool display.
SHOWING 3: Julie de Libran
To be welcomed into the home of Julie de Libran - what a sincere pleasure. Her debut collection, after five years at the helm of Sonia Rykiel, did not disappoint.
Julie opened the doors to her formidable home in the 6th arrondissement, and as expected, everyone came. You better believe this woman is loved by all. It was a very personal occasion, with a very personal collection, featuring 20 dresses. To borrow a term from my great friend Laura Brown, Julie is a very ‘badass’ woman, and this show proved just that.