New York Fashion Week Spring 2020 Diary | Part 3 the Finale
words by JULIA VON BOEHM • edited by DIANDRA BARSALOU MITCHELL • fashion week
The Fashion Week Diaries: The final day of Spring 2020 shows in NYC.
The final day of shows started with my most important event, attending Michael Kors with Nicole Kidman, who is one of my dearest clients. It is always exciting and a valuable insight as a stylist to experience fashion with her, let alone wonderful to spend time with such a lovely, genuine woman who has fast become an icon. I don’t always get to be on the front lines (backstage, in this case) to see how a look I’ve created for someone moves and wears and manifests itself. It was an absolute pleasure, and a gratification to see the magic happen as Nicole brought her look to life. The show itself, overall had a very classic, return to archetypal feel which is what Michael Kors does best. The Brooklyn Navy Yard location echoed the very Americana direction, and the runway soundtrack was not a soundtrack at all but rather a gospel choir serenading the models down the runway (which Pyer Moss did stunningly yesterday as well). After the show we made a quick stop to say hello to Michael, and then I found my way back to Manhattan.
At this point, I very begrudgingly had to cancel an IV Drip, the hydration from which I definitely could have benefitted, but I had Brock Collection to get to. Me, myself, and I tend to come next to last during fashion week.
For someone who loves hotels, vintage carpeted vibes and old fashioned luxury, the Pierre hotel was the perfect location for Brock Collection. The atmosphere was subtle decadence with a touch of Great Expectations as designers Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar brought back their signatures; full-sail silhouette details and hi-low styling, which is to say the looks bordered on a romanticly undone edge— we’ll call it raw— yet still remained wholesome while flirting with cool. My most loved were Look 2: A simple white frock with a flattering, easy neckline and length, Look 3: The sheer embroidered dress that we didn’t know we needed, complete with an empire waist, puff sleeves and a squared sweetheart neckline, and Look 7: a true maxi dress with a high collared, button-down front and tiered volume in the skirt.
Proenza Schouler x Birkenstock
This collaboration was very much anticipated after yesterday’s Proenza Schouler SS20 runway show. Being German, I love Birkenstock because it reminds me of home and brought a touch of comfort and nostalgia for days long gone when the sandals were not particularly popular elsewhere but loved in Germany nonetheless. I love seeing a homegrown brand that has reached a certain level become strategic with collaborations. Not only does it keep them fresh and relevant, but using their power to support designers like Proenza Schouler is something to be celebrated in the industry. This was one such event where one mingles with lovely like-minded industry people, and I met a new friend Alfons Kaiser. Alfons is behind Frankfurter Allgemeine which is, in my opinion, the absolute best newspaper in the area of my hometown, Heidelberg. I also caught up with one of my favorite, most hardworking people, Alexander Werz, the Global Executive Director of Karla Otto with whom I have been friends for almost 20 years. After the Birkenstock presentation I ran to the Gramercy Hotel for a quick and exciting meeting, and then had to run even faster back to the JVB office to prepare for a surprise shoot this Saturday.
I must admit that I did not personally attend the show as this evening was the closing curriculum night at my daughters’ school, and while I love them dearly, I was sad to have missed the Marc Jacobs presentation. One of the most important shows in New York City, his runway is always one of my most coveted because I love his designs, but especially Marc as a person. From afar, my favorites are the Euphoria inclined makeup (all over the runways!), and Looks 5 and 32. However, the height and culmination of the playful collection and it’s celebration of individualism was Marc himself, airborne on the runway. A frame which I might have missed from the front row.
I must also give a long distance love letter for Dion Lee, whose Spring 2020 runway was resplendent with clean lines and almost delicate, yet strong details amidst structural composition. My favorite looks were Look 16: A blazer fastened with a leather garter style belt holding thigh high square toe boots, and Look 29: An oversized white shirt style romper with the leather garter belt, snakeskin thigh high boots and the finishing touch, a bright red leather bag.
Overall, the New York Spring 2020 runways were not as trend driven as previous seasons, and the return was definitely welcomed. As was a glass of rosé, the most hydrating moisturizer I could find, and soon my bed as I crash after the girls this evening.