New York Fashion Week Spring 2020 Diary | Part 2
words by JULIA VON BOEHM • edited by DIANDRA BARSALOU MITCHELL • fashion week
The Fashion Week Diaries: A day at NYFW SS20 part 2.
Edie Park Flower
The morning started with Edie Parker Flower, a brand I adore as their team are like friends and family, and a nice morning treat it was! This activation in honor of their collaboration with Paul Arnhold Glass had the cutest airstream with bright floral decor set up outside as well. Among the one-of-a-kind hand blown glass bongs, rolling trays, lucite handbags and retro-style table lighters, I found the absolute perfect item— remember how yesterday I mentioned my daughter has started guitar? Well, Edie has made the perfect furniture piece than can be a little bench (pictured above) for a little songstress and I will absolutely have to pick one up for her.
Vera has returned to the New York Fashion Week runway for a dramatic show after two years. She gave us a dark setting with her go-to sensibility of feminine details and flowing fabric with mixed with some structure and an attention to draping, lace and textile that comes from her bridal background. There were no surprises in a very pretty dropped shoulder, which is her signature, and slip-like pieces, some that incorporated corsets. Romantic and gothic, the atmosphere was dark with spotlights giving rays of light like the ones that break through heavy clouds in the distance. One thing I just have to note is that a lower shoe would help her models walk stronger, as two of them fell, which is never a good look in a show and the poor models feel awful after, usually blaming themselves instead of the shoes. My favorite of the show was the empire waist and billowing silhouette of Look 31, complete with the perfect pair of shorts.
Gabriela Hearst. Where to begin, I always love her shows and this NYFW SS20 was no exception. She really created a collection infused with a soulful intelligence that allowed her Uruguayan heritage to shine through in a modern way— something that is so important in fashion and not always present on the runway these days. My absolute standout favorite look was Look 7: A leather bodice split with fishnet detail that gave way to a pleated white skirt. I also loved the accessories, especially her striped handbags which are just perfect for a getaway or spring in the city. The atmosphere was a reflection of the clothing, and vice versa; the buffet spread was thoughtful and welcoming, complete with Urugayan fare and delicious drinks.
Next, was the Veronica Etro luncheon. In all honesty, I usually do my best to avoid luncheons but when a great friend like Sarah Byworth is organizing, I’m there. Not to mention that Etro is a true family run heritage Italian brand which I appreciate, especially in this business. Today was hosted at Palma, the same delicious restaurant where Carolina Herrera threw me my inaugural InStyle dinner when I first started as Fashion Director. I also had the opportunity to meet Hunter Schaefer, who I am completely in awe of, even more so now after meeting such a lovely young woman who did not mind at all when I said hello and professed my love for Euphoria and her fearless work. I even managed to snap a pic of my friends Miguel Enamorado and Rebecca Ramsey, fashion directors of Harper’s Bazaar and The Cut, respectively. They served the perfect were 90s vibes (pictured above) just outside. A very successful luncheon indeed.
After finding the Edie Parker stool, the girls were on my mind so I decided to step out of the madness to pick them up from school as a surprise. They would never ever expect me to be there during fashion week, and in fact they both simultaneously went “But Mommy! It’s fashion week!”.
Coach was wonderfully staged on the High Line, showing bright colors and an 80s New York City style. I will say a definite trend to watch out for is the anklet. Two standouts were Look 35: a longer burgundy leather jacket paired with a yellow midi skirt, accessorized with a military style cap, and then Look 22: a deep pink leather bomber over a silk romper with negligee inclinations and a waist belt.
From Coach I rushed out for a quick rosé and french fries break with Sam Broekema, my good friend and the Market and Accessories Director at InStyle. We stopped at Augustine, and they graciously and efficiently accommodated our “its-fashion-week-we-need-rose-and-in-and-out-in-15-minutes” timeline. The perfect sustenance to jet off to Oscar de la Renta’s tropically inclined show.
Oscar de la Renta
Onward to Oscar de la Renta, who showed us a tropical themed setting with multi colored arches and baskets of fruit, which was meant to touch on de la Renta’s native Dominican Republic. My favorite moment was Look 23: a long, flowing collarless silk blouse in a patchwork print with a light matching jacket and multi striped silk pants. Let’s also talk about Adesuwa Aighewi and real supermodels— everything she wears immediately looks amazing and becomes infused with not just her look, but her real personality. Look 44: also a look I found enjoyable and fun in a completely different way, with the lace hat brim falling like a veil almost to the exaggerated black embroidered flower detail, the two moving down the catwalk in sync to the model’s steps.
I know both Proenza and Schouler from our very junior days, which always stays with you in a certain kind of camaraderie that keeps things real. After our rosé excursion and two shows, I had to sneak backstage to the restroom and, a bit like sneaking past Christmas presents too early on the day of, in my book it’s somewhat rude to peek, but incredibly tempting so I covered my eyes and fumbled to the washroom. Proenza Schouler’s SS20 show was very strong, and true to the identity and DNA that they created from the start. This is something I have always loved, the integrity and the way they do not get wrapped up in trends but simply give a trend a polite nod while staying their course. Something else I love is their mixing of metals. It really makes a woman’s life easier when her hand bag has both gold and silver hardware, and her accessories options are wide open. We were also treated to a little sneak peek of the upcoming Proenza Schouler x Birkenstock collaboration, carried very cooly if not nonchalantly by a model in Look 26.